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2011-01-09T02:21:00.001-08:00

A Rookie Guide to Digital SLR Cameras

2010-12-20T02:54:00.002-08:00

A Rookie Guide to Digital SLR Cameras

There comes a time in every point-and-shooter’s life when he or she wonders if there is more to photography than a

palm-sized block of aluminum stowed away in one’s pocket. The ultracompact point-and-shoot has come so far in

the last ten years that it’s tempting to write off DSLRs as largely irrelevant to most people’s lives, not offering

enoughutility to offset their bulky presence and hefty price tag. As soon as I bought my first truly great

ultracompact a few years ago, the Casio EX-Z750, I was in this boat.

7.2 megapixels in your pocket…

what more could one possibly need? After eventually moving up to the excellent 7x zoom

Casio EX-V8, I told myself I would never need a DSLR.

But then I tried one for the first one, on loan from the fine folks at Nikon. ANikon D80. Seemingly

the “it” camera for the last couple of years. This article will not so much be a review of the D80,

but rather a guide for DSLR virgins considering purchasing their first full sized digital camera.

First and foremost, will you use it?

We all love toys. We all love expensive toys. But nobody loves an expensive toy they never use. If you think you’re

going to buy a DSLR and carry it around everywhere with you, you’re probably wrong. It’s heavy around your neck,

it’s easily lost or stolen if you put it down in a public place, and it will never blend into the fabric of your life like a

pocket camera will. In other words, be prepared to take it with you when you know you will be using it

(e.g. sightseeing, stormwatching, portrait-taking, etc), but at all other times, it will probably stay at home.

For this reason, even after you buy a DSLR, it’s probably good to keep your ultracompact point-and-shoot as your

standard carry-along camera. Even on vacations, there will be plenty of times when the smaller camera is the only

one on you at any given time. Again, I recommend the Casio EX-V8 as a fantastic ultracompact choice here. For

the last few years, Casio has made the best all-around point-and-shoots, in my opinion.

Sunset at the top of Mauna Kea, 13,796 feet above sea-level. The highest peak above the ocean floor in the world.

Definitely DSLR territory.

Nikon vs. Canon vs. everyone else

Most serious photographers will tell you there are only two real choices in the DSLR market: Nikon and Canon.

Although companies like Olympus and Sony also make DSLRs, Nikon and Canon have such strong legacies in

SLR photography that they’ve earned an unshakable amount of trust among professional photographers. Being an

amateur, I am not one to question the conventional wisdom of professionals, so as far as I’m concerned, either

Nikon or Canon should be your choice (for now, at least). The Nikon/Canon religious wars are less like the Mac/PC

wars and more like BMW/Mercedes wars. With Macs and PCs, your Mac people think that PCs are horrendous

piles of garbage and your PC people think Macs are overpriced, niche devices. BMW and Mercedes, on the other

hand, really only differ in style… much like Nikons and Canons. They are equally priced, equally equipped, and

even take cues off each other in the feature department.

For a good overview of the differences between Canons and Nikons, check out this article. My favorite quote:

“Canons are the best cameras available designed by engineers, and Nikons are the best cameras one can

buy designed by photographers.”

That probably explains why I like this Nikon so much.

It’s the lens, stupid

Bodies come and go, but lenses are forever. So goes the saying. It may surprise you to know that some

photographers are using the exact same lenses they were using 40 years ago. Even a brand new $5000 Nikon D3

can use a lens from the 1960s, if the photographer so chooses. These days, camera bodies and image sensors

are evolving a lot faster than lenses, so to a large extent, it makes sense to invest more heavily in your lens(es)

than in your cameras. Any photographer will tell you that they’d rather shoot with a cheap body and a great lens

than the opposite.

There are essentially three things to consider when looking at lenses: speed, versatility, and stabilization.

Speed

Speed refers to how much light a lens lets in. If you’re like me, you hate flash photography and what it does to

faces and objects, so you prefer to use natural light at all times. The only lenses that will let you achieve this are

very fast lenses, usually with f-stops of 1.8 or lower. You can take a lens like this to a party at night and shoot

beautiful naturally-lit shots even in the dimmest of corners (where you will probably be hanging out, since no one

wants to stand with the dork carrying an SLR).

As a beginning photographer, your best option here is something John Gruber and Jim Ray

(and millions of others) call “the best deal in photography”: the 1.8f 50mm prime lens. It’s small, light, fast,

and just a little over $100. It is probably the only lens you will ever use after the sun goes down, and it also has

an incredible narrow depth of field which is great keeping subjects in focus and backgrounds soft.

Tintin’s dog Snowy. This figurine is only a couple of inches long, and while his face is in focus, even his front paws are

not. Narrow depth of field is a huge selling point of the 50mm prime lens.

Versatility

Although the 50mm prime has great light versatility, its fixed focal length won’t let you do any zooming, and thus,

you may find yourself too far away at times to capture your ideal shot. Stalkers are well aware of this conundrum.

In order to adequately frame subjects which are far away, you’ll need to pick yourself up a quality zoom lens. Even

among zoom lenses, there is a wide range of versatility. There are 12-24mm (very wide angle), 70-300mm

(very magnified), everything in-between, and even some further down and further out.

The first aftermarket lens I bought for my D80 was a Sigma 70-300mm, thinking it would come in handy for general

use. More zooming would equal less walking and greater detail, or so I thought. In reality, it was a lens I found very

little use for. Its inability to take “normal” wide angle shots, combined with the fact that at 300mm it takes a tripod

to keep it from shaking, made it almost useless to me. I ended up trading it straight across for a Nikon 1.4f 50mm

prime lens on Craigslist, which is much more useful to me (see above section on “speed”).

The most versatile lens in the world — and the one I eventually purchased — appears to be the Nikon 18-200mm

VR lens. I bought this lens onrecommendation from the great Ken Rockwell, and I couldn’t be happier with it.

It does wide-angle shots at 18mm. It does telephoto shots at 200mm. Its focal length essentially covers you in 99%

of the situations you’ll ever find yourself in. And it has VR, which I’ll discuss in the next subsection.

A lot of people have called the Nikon 18-200mm VR the most useful lens ever designed, and it’s not hard to see

why. While professional photographers are used to carrying around a bag full of lenses, prosumers and

weekenders would rather never have to change a lens. With the 18-200mm VR, you just pop the thing on and then

forget about it. It’s a bit steep at $700, but worth it, in my opinion.

This picture was also taken atop Mauna Kea but under only the light of the moon. This is a 30 second exposure at ISO

1600.

Image stabilization

Both Nikon and Canon have image stabilization built into some of their best lenses now. I haven’t tested Canon’s

out but it’s widely believed to be on par with Nikon’s VR (vibration reduction) technology. In a nutshell, VR is exactly

what you probably think it is: a mechanism inside the lens detects camera shake and moves lens parts around in

order to neutralize it. Does it work? It absolutely does. Is it noticeable? It absolutely is. I took some test shots

around dusk, in low light, both with VR on and off and the difference is dramatic. The shots with VR off are blurry

and unusable. Everybody’s hands have a different amount of shake to them, but most people report the ability to

shoot about 4 stops faster when using VR. That is to say, if you can normally shoot handheld at 1/100, you should

now be able to shoot at 1/15 (in much darker conditions).

As of today, Canon doesn’t appear to have an answer to the 18-200mm VR lens, but perhaps the closest thing

they have is the Canon EF 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6L IS USM, but it’s about $2300. It goes up to 300mm which is nice,

but the Nikon goes down to 18mm, which is more useful in my mind.

This photo was taken at 1/8 exposure and *no* VR. Blurry.

This photo was taken at 1/8 exposure *with* VR. Sharp!

Storage

The D80 uses an SD slot for storage, which I like, but some people prefer Compact Flash instead.

Other models offer the use of either storage technology, sometimes in tandem. Pick whichever format suits you

best, but with the cost of both Compact Flash and SD cards halving every several months, this may not be a

huge factor in your purchasing decision. As of today, an 8 gig SD card can be had for $33.99 while an 8 gig CF

card is about$39 so price per gig is roughly equivalent.

The megapixel myth

Image data is only as good as the source that captured it. In a DSLR camera, that includes both the lens and the

image sensor. We’ve already covered the importance of the lens, but what about the sensor? Is a 6 megapixel

sensor going to produce better photos than a 10 megapixel sensor?

Currently, in most cases the answer is no. For most consumer/prosumer level DSLRs, the compact size of the

sensor is such that megapixel levels above 6 do not increase the quality of the resulting image whatsoever.

Edit (thanksPatrick): The answer is, “not always”. The size and sensitivity of the sensor is more important than the

raw number of megapixels it produces so beware of judging cameras, even DSLRs, on their megapixel counts.

If you’re really interested in fully maximizing resolution and clarity, your only real choices are the new Nikon or

Canon “full-frame” DSLRs. These cameras are all between $2000 and $8000 for the body only and have sensors

which are much larger than any prosumer/consumer cameras. If you’re in the market for one, you’re probably way

overqualified for this article.

High-resolution fire.

Interface and usability

Both Nikon and Canon have spent years refining their user interfaces, and users of each tend to prefer their own

brand. My experience with Nikon was that I spent about 45 minutes reading the manual front-to-back (a rarity for

me), then spent a couple of hours pushing buttons and turning dials, and I quickly felt pretty comfortable with the

D80. Moving from the one-dial-one-button world of a Casio ultracompact to a 100-control DSLR still takes some

adjusting, but as with most Apple products, the dials and buttons on the D80 seem to be designed very thoughtfully

and generally serve their purpose while staying out of your way.

Filters

Most the time, the only filter you’ll ever need is a circular polarizer. Polarizers bend light as they enter the lens to

either reduce or enhance reflections in the scene. They are particularly useful for reducing reflections off of water,

snow, and buildings, and for creating more dramatic looking skies. Polarizers range from about 10 bucks to several

hundred bucks, but most of the reading I’ve done suggests that a $40 polarizer is imperceptibly equivalent to the

much more expensive ones. I use a Hoya that I bought for about $40 at Tall’s Camera.

What’s missing

In my mind, there are only three things missing from most cameras today, all of which I think will become standard

equipment within a couple of years: GPS, wifi, and native HDR handling. GPS seems like a no-brainer and frankly

I’m surprised it’s not more widespread already, considering how small GPS chips have gotten and the fact that a

lot of phones have this capability already. Once all of my photos are automatically geotagged, it will become more

interesting to collect and view them, and thus, I will take more of them. Wifi support is important to me because

I’m often too lazy to transfer my photos to my hard drive or upload them online. Thankfully, a few months ago, the

EyeFi was released, so that’s probably good enough, but it would be even nicer if it was built into the camera itself.

HDR, or “high dynamic range” photography, is a method of photography whereby multiple shots at different

exposures are composited together to produce dramatic, often surreal imagery. Some examples are here, in the

Flickr HDR pool. It seems to me that a camera should theoretically be able to open the shutter once and take

multiple shots from that, each during different points in the exposure, thus producing the layers necessary for the

compositing.

Final analysis

So before you go out and buy a DSLR, here are some recommendations:

Make sure you want one and have reasonable expectations for its usage
Keep your ultracompact for everyday use, or buy a new Casio EX-V8
When looking at DSLRs, trust what the pros use: Nikons and Canons
Invest more in lenses than in bodies, disregarding any “resolution advantages” that aren’t also
accompanied by larger sensors
Purchase both a zoom lens for versatility and a fast prime lens for low light and narrow depth of field

Credits to :

http://www.mikeindustries.com/blog/archive/2008/01/a-rookie-guide-to-digital-slr-cameras

SLR Photography

2010-12-20T02:54:00.000-08:00

In SLR photography one of the biggest quality issues photographers find is poor focusing. Many assume an SLR will automatically focus exactly on what you want. This is not necessarily true. Automatic Mode (often called "idiot mode" by experienced photographers) can't read your mind. You need to make the camera do what you want.

Credits to : http://www.wikihow.com/Use-the-Manual-Focus-on-an-SLR-Camera

SLR Guide

2010-12-20T02:52:00.001-08:00

From The Digital SLR Guide

If you can't find the information that you're seeking elsewhere on the Digital SLR Guide, then check one of the following articles to see if it answers your questions.

I write these articles for EzineArticles, and they include information that just doesn't fit anywhere else within the Guide.

If you read through this list of digital SLR articles and STILL can't find the answer to your burning question, please feel free to contact me.

Shopping For a Digital SLR? What You Should Know Before You Begin
Wed, 04 Apr 2007 15:15:02 -0500
This quick overview will help you understand the state of digital SLR cameras today- what features they have, what features they don't and how much you should expect to pay. Find out about the latest technology innovations which can make or break your decision about which new camera to buy.
Top 5 Tips for Buying a Digital SLR Camera
Tue, 06 Feb 2007 10:12:49 -0600
Have you every bought a new car? If you have, then you'll find that buying a new digital Single Lens Reflex (SLR) camera isn't a whole lot different. Sure, there's a BIG difference in cost, but the steps you should take are almost identical.
Sony's New Digital SLR: The Total Package?
Wed, 07 Jun 2006 10:59:04 -0500
For years camera companies have been battling each other in the digital SLR market with special proprietary features. Each company made the feature they had developed the hallmark of their digital SLR camera line. Now Sony has arrived on the scene, with a camera that claims to do it all.
The Hidden Cost of Digital SLR Cameras
Tue, 06 Jun 2006 10:47:06 -0500
If you're out to buy a new digital SLR, don't just budget for the camera and lens. There are several hidden costs associated with digital SLR cameras, and you need to know if any of them will affect you before you finalize you camera purchase.
The Number One Cause of Cropped Digital Prints
Fri, 02 Jun 2006 13:34:52 -0500
Feeling frustrated? Are all of the great digital photos that you have printed coming back with parts of the photo missing? This is a common issue with many digital cameras, and this article reveals the number one culprit.
The Ideal Digital Camera for Family Photographers
Tue, 09 May 2006 15:23:52 -0500
If you've ever missed a great shot of your child because your digital camera was too slow, maybe it's time to consider an alternative. With a digital SLR at your side, you'll be ready to capture even the most fleeting moment.
Three Steps to Overcome Photography Block
Mon, 08 May 2006 16:07:05 -0500
Just like writers, photographers get blocked. When you're blocked nothing looks interesting, and you can't find a thing to photograph. Don't despair! Follow these 3 simple techniques to get back out snapping pictures again.
What Digital SLRs Can't Do
Wed, 19 Apr 2006 09:38:24 -0500
Digital SLR cameras are great at taking photos, but lack some of the features of compact cameras. Find out ahead of time what they can't do, so you're not disappointed if you buy one.
Has the Well of Digital SLR Innovation Run Dry?
Wed, 19 Apr 2006 09:14:22 -0500
Canon is the market leader in digital SLR camera sales, but is losing the innovations race to competitors. This is clearly illustrated by the difference between the Olympus E330 and the Canon 30D.
Find The Best Digital SLR For You - Part II
Tue, 11 Apr 2006 10:38:51 -0500
Can't find the right digital SLR camera? There are many models to choose from, and the features are all very similar. Good news: there is a way to find the best camera for you, and it's just as easy as going to the supermarket.
Find The Best Digital SLR For You - Part I
Tue, 11 Apr 2006 10:10:36 -0500
Tired of your compact digital camera not getting the photos you want? Maybe it's time to make the switch to a digital SLR. This article introduces you to the SLR, and illustrates the wrong way to start your digital SLR camera search.
How EXIF Data Can Improve Your Photography
Tue, 04 Apr 2006 13:06:50 -0500
Photographers improve by taking a ton of photos and then reviewing the camera settings for each shot. With film you have to keep accurate records. Not a numbers person? Digital EXIF data does the record-keeping for you.
How an Average Photographer Can Take a Stunning Photo
Thu, 30 Mar 2006 08:26:27 -0600
You have a fancy new digital camera, but all the photos you take with it look pretty bland. What's the problem? Before you blame the camera, find out about a trick that can help the average photographer take a stunning photo.
5 Reasons Why Parents Should Consider a Digital SLR
Tue, 28 Mar 2006 15:01:24 -0600
Digital SLR camera are now competitively priced with compact cameras, and afford more flexibility and features when you're trying to take photos of children.
The Myth of Megapixels
Wed, 30 Nov 2005 19:58:07 -0600
Whether you already own a digital camera or are just about to buy one, you should know what megapixels are really good for.
How a Prime Lens Can Improve Your Photography
Wed, 30 Nov 2005 17:09:51 -0600
Find out why zoom lenses can make you into a lazy photographer and what a prime lens can do to help.
The Orphan Child Called ISO
Fri, 11 Nov 2005 07:44:40 -0600
ISO is one of the most overlooked features on digital cameras. Find out the benefits of this orphan feature and how you can use it to boost your camera's sensitivity to light.

Credits to : http://www.digital-slr-guide.com/digital-slr-articles.html

SLR Articles

2010-12-10T09:53:00.000-08:00

The Canon EOS system of digital single-lens reflex (SLR) bodies and lenses is the standard choice among professional photographers worldwide. This page makes it easy to shop for Canon digital bodies and EOS lenses. Every component manufactured by Canon is covered, plus a few exceptionally good third-party components. If you are new to photography, you might want to start with our article "Building a Digital SLR System".

This article goes through every section of the Canon EOS system and concludes with some starter system recommendations.

One of the most common questions I get as related to photography is "What camera should I buy?" Before I get into the reasons I recommend buying a DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex) camera, I'd like to state why you should NOT buy a DSLR.

There is a saying among photographers: "The camera doesn't make the photo, the photographer does." The point is that no matter how expensive your gear is, it means nothing without someone who knows how to properly use it. A great artist can create masterpieces with ordinary tools.

I urge you not to buy that Canon EOS 30D or Nikon D80 or [insert other DSLR model here] if you plan to leave it on full automatic mode. DSLRs are expensive light-capturing tools that can help you create some amazing images, but only if you have the time and patience to learn what you are doing and be creative.

As a side note, I will link to some various websites below which I think are useful in the context of this article. Please note that we are not paid for endorsements by any of these websites. I'm simply sharing what I think are some very useful links for people who aren't already "in-the-know."

With my public service announcement out of the way, I present to you 10 Reasons to Buy a DSLR Camera:

Creative Control: This is probably the single most obvious advantage of DSLR cameras. These cameras have a multitude of settings that are just begging to be adjusted. Everything from shutter speed and aperture to white balance, in-camera sharpening and contrast, white balance and white balance shift, flash synchronization, and more...

Superior Sensors: DSLRs typically use a sensor that is approximately the same dimensions as an APS film negative (22.7 x 15.1 mm). In contrast, the 2/3" sensor size of an 8 Megapixel digicam is dramatically smaller, about the size of the tip of your pinky (8.8 x 6.6 mm). The larger sensor translates directly to higher image quality in terms of detail, color depth, and dynamic range.

Less Noise: Noise is the digital equivalent of film grain. The fact that DSLRs display less noise is at least in part a result of the larger sensor size mentioned above, however it is significant enough to warrant getting its very own bullet point. With your typical digicam, you will get noticeable noise which is detrimental to image quality at pretty much anything above the lowest possible ISO setting. Contrast that with your typical modern DSLR, where you can actually make acceptable prints even at some of the highest ISO settings. I should note that in the literal sense, DSLRs usually make MORE noise when you click the shutter than a point-n-shoot, hehe.

Accessories Galore: DSLR cameras can almost be considered upgradeable, they have so many accessories... There are lenses, filters, adapters, extension tubes, flashes, strobes, brackets, and the list goes on. For example, you can buy affordable general purpose lenses or high-end lenses with superior quality. Some lenses serve special functions as well, such as those with image stabilization, macro abilities, tilt-shift functionality, and soft focus. You get the idea. With a DSLR, you have a lot of compatible tools at your disposal which opens the door to new creative possibilities.

No Shutter Lag: Shutter lag is that awful delay between the time that you click the shutter on a digicam and the time that an image is actually taken. With DSLRs, there is virtually no delay between the time that you click the shutter and the image is taken. How many times have you missed a great photo opportunity because the camera didn't focus fast enough and then didn't take the shot fast enough once it was focused?

Instant Startup: Most DSLRs have nearly instant startup times. That means if your camera is hanging around your neck and in the OFF position, and you see a three-legged man riding a unicycle towards you, you can quickly turn the camera on and snap the shot. And the aforementioned lack of shutter lag will further help in getting the photo. With a digicam it will usually take several seconds to startup, and then you'll have to wait a second or so for it to focus, and then when you click the shutter there will be maybe another second before the image is actually taken - and the three-legged man will be gone.

Higher Build Quality: Most digicams are plastic, plastic, and more plastic. They feel flimsy and they're not all that hard to break. DSLRs are built to much higher standards, increasingly so as you get into the more expensive models of course. Some of the cheaper DSLRs are still going to have a lot of plastic in them, but overall they're more durable than a similarly priced digicam. When you get into some of the more expensive models in the $1,000+ range, bodies are ruggedized with largely metal bodies and nice rubberized grips. The ultra-high-end professional bodies are the most rugged and are weather-sealed so you can use them in the harshest environments without a problem. I don't think you'll find many war photographers using a rinky-dink digicam.

Viewfinder: This can be a plus and a minus, but mainly it's a plus. With a DSLR, you do not compose your shots on the camera's LCD, you do so through the viewfinder, and you're actually looking through the lens (that's what TTL stands for, though not to be confused with TheTechLounge). Looking through the viewfinder allows you to see more detail as you compose your shots with regard to what's in focus, and you won't have to worry about glare on an LCD interfering with composition. The only negative looking through the viewfinder really has is that if you are in a situation where you have to shoot from the hip or over your head, you have to sort of blindly shoot. By contrast, some digicams have swiveling and rotating LCD screens which allow you to compose such a shot without a problem. It's a small sacrifice. I suppose there's also the fact that it might be less comfortable to press your face against the back of the camera, but you get used to it.

Ergonomics: Back when I used to shoot with a small digicam, I would notice that my hand would cramp after a while of holding the tiny camera. DSLRs are larger and have molded grips which (to a varying degree) make holding the camera for long periods much more comfortable. The cheaper DSLRs are smaller and less comfortable, whereas the more expensive ones are usually larger and more comfortable. This is actually the main reason why I chose to purchase a Canon 20D over a Canon Digital Rebel XT - the 20D feels much better in my hand. And since I'm on the computer pretty much all day every day and I already experience occasional pain in my hands, I wanted a very comfortable camera to hold.

Price: DSLR cameras are practically affordable nowadays. The big two (Canon and Nikon) currently offer DSLRs for as low as $500-$600 (Canon Digital Rebel XT and Nikon D50) and they've been encroaching on point-n-shoot price territory more and more each year. Believe it or not, this is actually already cheaper than some digicams out there. Not to mention the fact that you can often find a great deal on a used DSLR at some major online stores such as BHPhotoVideo.com and KEH.com. Another great source for used equipment is the Buy & Sell forums (registration is required, but free) over at FredMiranda.com. Incidentally, FredMiranda is also a great site to learn from other photographers, and it's also a good resource for camera and lens reviews by the site's users.

* * * * *
For me, the above list represents 10 good reasons to buy a DSLR over a point-n-shoot digicam. However, I don't want to paint a picture that DSLRs are the perfect solution for everybody. There are some aspects which some would view as a negative of DSLR cameras. You definitely won't be able to put a DSLR in your pocket, it may not be convenient for parties where people are likely to bump into it or spill drinks on it, you'll definitely get more attention with a DSLR around your neck than with a tiny digicam, it's heavier to carry around for long periods, there is a steep learning curve, and it's also an addictive hobby that may get you spending more on lenses and other accessories than you initially planned. These are all compromises I'm willing to make, but only you can decide if a DSLR is truly right for you.

Credits to :http://www.thetechlounge.com/article/308/